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Read the Leaves
 
South Africa's Rooibos Tea

by Neil Lurssen


Rooibos - it's an Afrikaans word that means "red bush," and until recently it has been one of Africa's best-kept secrets. We predict that once the pleasures and benefits of drinking Rooibos tea gain wider currency, its popularity will grow rapidly. It has had a devoted following in Africa's vast southern region for many generations - a region where the folks know a good thing when they see it. They will tell you that not only is it a refreshing, aromatic, and caffeine-free beverage, it also provides health benefits. And they will swear that it soothes restless children and eases colic in babies. Rooibos has been available in North America and Europe for some years now but on a relatively small scale. Now that South Africa has regained its place in the world, expect to see much more this great beverage.

Rooibos is cultivated intensively in the Western Cape region of South Africa, which is not on the usual tourist circuit in spite of its dramatic scenery and rugged vistas. But its natural attractions are gaining international notice, particularly the stunning display of spring wild flowers that decorate the adjacent landscape in September and October following good winter rains. In most years, the dry brown scrub is replaced briefly by a dazzling coat of yellow, orange, white and blue flowers - and even the air tastes sweet when nature is in a playful mood. In this relatively dry area the Winterhoek and Cedarberg mountain ranges proclaim the timeless grandeur of nature, and their slopes provide perfect conditions for growing the Aspalathus Linearis plant whose fine, spiky leaves are brewed for rooibos. It grows in coarse, sandy soil that is low in acidity and holds moisture from the winter rains quite well.

Farmers in the region have enjoyed rooibos since the distant past, but its commercial exploitation really began in the early part of the 20th century when a pioneering soul, Benjamin Ginsberg, an immigrant from Tzarist Russia, tried it, liked it, and realized that the beverage the local folk called tea had trading potential. Ginsberg's family had been in the tea business for many years, and this provided him with the expertise to market the Western Cape's own "mountain tea". As cultivation methods were developed - and boosted by a shortage of Ceylon tea during World War II - production increased down the years. Today it is an important part of the region's economy in districts that have names like Clanwilliam, Citrusdal, Van Rhynsdorp, and Calvinia.

Rooibos is, of course, an infusion and you prepare it just as you would a more familiar type of tea or infusion. Warm the teapot with boiling water, add leaves or bags (one heaped spoon or one bag per cup), pour boiling water into the pot and allow to steep for two to three minutes. It can be enjoyed piping hot or chilled, day or night. The fact that it is caffeine-free makes it especially popular as a nightcap - a soothing beverage at the end of a long day. An added benefit: rooibos can be reheated on the stove or in a microwave oven without harming its delicate flavor in any way.

Many rooibos lovers enjoy it just as it comes with nothing added. Others add milk, honey, sugar or lemon. At social gatherings these days, it is often served cold and mixed with fruit juice or champagne or red wine in a punch bowl. For the health conscious, rooibos provides calcium, iron, potassium, zinc, magnesium and sodium.

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